June 08, 2003

醴泉 蘭著待

ranjatai.jpg

こないだのキャンプで飲んだ「醴泉 蘭著待」(れいせん らんじゃたい)を忘れないうちに…

醴泉は、養老の滝伝説で有名な岐阜県養老町の 玉泉堂酒造 の酒で、奈良時代に天皇が彼の地の泉を、滝の水が甘く健康によいとされる中国の泉から名をとって「醴泉」と名づけた故事から、名を取ったということらしい。

蘭著待とは、東大寺の正倉院に保管されている国宝の香木の名で、天下一の銘香と謳われ、過去に足利義政、織田信長、明治天皇が切り取りとったといういわくのもの。‘蘭奢待’の文字の中には「東大寺」の3文字が隠されているとのこと(あ、ほんとだ)。

なんとも大仰な名前の酒なのだが、さて仕込みといえば、掛米・麹米ともに精米歩合35%まで磨き上げた、特A地区産山田錦だけを使って、熊本9号酵母で仕込み、袋吊り(※1)して斗瓶取り(※2)するという、手間隙のかかったもの。

今回飲んだのは、生でなく火入れした一本。飲み口については先日もレポートしたとおり、しっかり濃醇系だが、キレがいいので飲み飽きない。こういう米の味のする酒、俺は好き。逆に端麗系が好きな人には、苦手な酒かも。
吟醸香もゆるやかで、華やかすぎる香りが苦手な俺にはいい感じ。(ていうかフローラルな酒なんて肴にあわねーじゃん)
贅沢な造りと名前に恥じない、立派な酒ですな。

ただ、こいつを一本やっちまうと、他の酒がみんな水になります。芋焼酎のんだあとの米焼酎状態。順番に注意。

※1 袋吊り
仕込んだ酒を‘もろみ’から取り出すには、通常機械(もろみ自動圧搾機)を使うか、人力(ふね)でおこなう。袋吊りは、一切の加圧をせず、もろみの袋を吊り下げて、自然に滴るしずくを集めて、なるべく空気に触れないように酒を取り出す手法で、「しずく酒」とも呼ばれる。もっとも手間がかかり効率の悪い方法。

※2 斗瓶取り、斗瓶囲い
通常、仕込んだ酒は大型のタンクで保存されるが、品評会出品用の酒などは、斗瓶という10升ほどの瓶に詰めて保存される。小さな容器のほうが繊細な香りが失われず、また熟成にも適しているといわれている。

Posted by ryo at June 8, 2003 01:48 PM | TrackBack (91)
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